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論壇地址:http://www.vemp.tw/bbs/thread-480955-1-1.html

The real power behind China’s new trend of ‘sissy men’ ... is the empowered modern woman

中國“娘娘腔”的新潮流背后的推手……是被賦予了力量的現代女性



The ‘luxury pig men’ are challenging traditional gender stereotypes, and some commentators believe greater empowerment for women is helping them to do so

“精豬男”正在挑戰傳統的性別觀念,一些評論人士認為賦予女性更大的權力助長了他們這種行為。

In recent weeks, a new buzzword has emerged on the Chinese internet to describe a new breed of make-up loving young men: “luxury pig men”.

最近幾周,中國互聯網上出現了一個新的流行詞,用來形容新一代愛化妝的年輕人:“精豬男”。

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That triggered a backlash in other sections of state media as commentators and women’s groups weighed in to support the right to adopt different forms of masculinity.

這在其他官方媒體中引起了強烈反響,因為評論人士和婦女團體都在為支持他們與眾不同的男性形象采取行動。

A similar debate was triggered by the first “luxury pig man” – a 25-year-old from the eastern city of Hangzhou who spends up to 30,000 yuan (US$4,380) a year on his beauty regime.

第一個“精豬男”引發了類似的爭論。這位來自東部城市杭州的25歲年輕人每年花費高達3萬元(合4380美元)用于美容。

Although local media criticised Xu Tao’s “excessive” grooming routine – he spent around 30 minutes each day doing his make-up – this soon triggered a heated debate as the story went viral on social media.

盡管當地媒體批評了徐濤的“過度”打扮——他每天花大約30分鐘化妝——這很快引發了一場激烈的辯論,因此這個故事在社交媒體上瘋傳。

“They embody a new trend of male beauty that appeals more and more to female millennials,” said Matthieu Rochette-Schneider, China general manager of French brand consultancy Centdegres. “It is becoming the new beauty standard for Chinese men.”

法國品牌咨詢公司Centdegres中國總經理馬蒂厄•羅切特-施奈德表示:“這體現了一種男性美的新趨勢,這種趨勢對女性千禧一代的吸引力越來越大。”“這正成為中國男性的新美容標準。”

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In this way, China is slowly beginning to mirror South Korea in its oemo jisang juui – or “looks are supreme” – culture of workplace advancement.

通過這種方式,中國正在慢慢地開始模仿韓國的oemo jisang juui——或者“看起來是至高無上的”——職場進步的文化。

Besides celebrities, many young men in China are first coming into contact with make-up through a growing number of male beauty bloggers or their friends and girlfriends.

除了名人,中國許多年輕人也開始通過越來越多的男性美容博主或他們的朋友女友來接觸化妝品。

Video producer Zhang Dayu, 28, was first introduced to make-up and skincare four years ago through his beauty-conscious girlfriend Christine while they were living in Beijing.

4年前,28歲的視頻制作人張大勇在北京生活時第一次被介紹使用化妝品和護膚品

“At the time, he didn’t pay much attention to his appearance, and never got into the habit of skincare,” Christine said. “His skin was coarse, his pores were obvious and his eyebrows were growing wild.”

克里斯汀說:“當時,他并沒有太注意自己的外表,也沒有養成護膚的習慣。”“他的皮膚很粗糙,毛孔很明顯,他的眉毛也很狂野。”

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One 29-year-old Beijinger nicknamed Xiaoyu said he had started using make-up two years ago because he was suffering from bad acne. Thanks to product recommendations from his male friends, the Beijinger quickly fell down a make-up rabbit hole and now spends 800 to 1,000 yuan (US$117-US$146) a month on cosmetics and skincare.

一位名叫小余的29歲的北京人說他兩年前開始使用化妝品,因為他患了嚴重的粉刺。因一位男性朋友推薦,他很快就開始習慣化妝,現在每月在化妝品和護膚品上花費800到1000元人民幣(合146美元)。

“Society’s increasing acceptance of men wearing make-up is a definite trend,” he said. “After putting on make-up I feel more confident.”

他說:“社會越來越多地接受男性化妝,這是一個明確的趨勢。”“化妝后,我感覺更自信了。”

Xiaoyu normally spends an hour per day on his make-up and skincare routine, and uses a variety of products including BB creams (also known as beauty balms), foundation, face masks, sera and cleansing oils.

小余通常每天花一個小時在化妝和護膚上并使用各種各樣的產品,包括BB霜(也叫美容balms)、粉底、面膜、血清和清潔油。

In recent years, male cosmetics and skincare have come to represent a small but fast-growing segment of China’s lucrative beauty industry, worth 20.13 billion yuan in total as of May 2018, according to data from Statista.

根據Statista的數據,近年來男性化妝護膚品已經成為中國利潤豐厚的美容行業中一個規模雖小但增長迅速的領域,截至2018年5月該行業總銷售額為20.13億元。

Research from Euromonitor predicts that annual growth rate for male cosmetics sales in China will hit 13.5 per cent by 2019 – well ahead of 5.8 per cent for male beauty products worldwide.
A similar recent study by online retailers Vipshop.com and JD.com found that sales of male beauty products on these platforms have doubled year on year since 2015. Face masks, BB creams, lipsticks and brow products were especially popular.

歐睿研究預測,到2019年中國男性化妝品銷售的年增長率將達到13.5%,遠遠超過全球男性美容產品5.8%。在線零售商Vipshop.com和京東最近一項類似研究發現自2015年以來,這些平臺上的男性美容產品銷量同比增長了一倍。面膜、BB霜、唇膏和眉毛產品尤其受歡迎。

Asia’s appetite for male cosmetics is not only fuelled by viral beauty bloggers and K-pop aesthetic ideals, but also the beauty industry’s keen desire to capitalise on this relatively new audience.
“As there is an increase in male beauty vloggers and men who wear make-up, cultural ideals of who can and how to wear make-up will definitely change,” said Babette Radclyffe-Thomas, a PhD researcher in Asian fashion trends at the London College of Fashion.

亞洲對男性化妝品的需求不僅受到了病毒式美容博主和韓國流行美學理念的推動,還受到美容行業利用這一相對較新受眾的強烈愿望。
倫敦時裝學院亞洲時尚趨勢的博士研究員Babette Radclyffe-Thomas說:“隨著男性選美者和化妝男性的增加,女性的文化思維和化妝方式肯定會改變。”

“Skincare trends also hold different cultural significance in Asia compared to other regions. Notions of skincare and grooming ideals in this region are interlinked with ideas surrounding cleanliness rather than gender or sexuality.”
But it may still be a long while before wearing full facial make-up will become the norm for Chinese men across all ages, social classes and regions.

“與其他地區相比,亞洲的護膚品趨勢也具有不同的文化意義。在這個地區護膚美容的理念與清潔理念是相互聯系的,而無關性別或性。“但可能還需要很長一段時間在所有年齡、社會階層和地區的中國男性身上使得化妝成為一種常態。”

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For instance, the top-rated online comments in response to the “luxury pig men” controversy were overwhelmingly supportive.
“Can the entitled straight men in the comments just blow up on the spot?” wrote one user on Weibo, China’s Twitter. “I can just imagine what this kind of person looks like in real life …”

例如,針對“精豬男”爭議中排名最高的在線評論絕大多數都是支持他這么做的。“直男”會被這種行為氣炸嗎?一名用戶在微博上寫道。“我可以想象,在現實生活中這種人是什么樣的。”